During my talks on the social history of afternoon tea, I am often asked to recommend appropriate tea table items for special events. A traditional afternoon tea is considered quintessentially English but is, in fact, enjoyed all over the world. As we are approaching Rosh Hashanah, a busy time of family gatherings at all hours of the day, I am turning my attention to what items would enhance a new year’s tea table. 

The emphasis is, of course, on our shared wishes for a sweet year ahead. The savoury and delicately crustless afternoon tea sandwiches could extend the sweet theme by the substitution of small bridge rolls.  Bridge rolls are mezonot, meaning that they are defined as cake rather than bread (in Orthodox circles they do not require the washing of hands prior to consumption). They are sweeter than bread because the dough is made with fruit juice rather than water. I’d suggest allowing no more than three or four small rolls per person, as there will surely be more indulgences to follow.

It’s now the turn of those little bready beauties, the scones. The first dilemma is pronunciation: Are you a ‘scone as in gone’ or a ‘scone as in bone’ person? Either is correct, and is often divided on geographical lines. And now – and this is real controversy - are you a ‘Cornwall or a Devon’ type of person? In other words: jam first onto your scone, then cream on top (Cornwall) or alternatively cream first and jam on top (Devon)? To add to the festive feel, extra amounts of raisins can be baked into the scones, or the jam’s fruitiness can be enhanced with slices of real red fruits, whether raspberries or strawberries. But please don’t fill yourself up with the scone course!

Thanks to Mary, Queen of Scots’ alleged aversion to cherries, the fashion for cakes topped with slivered almonds started.

Finally, if we happen to be treated to a three-tiered cake stand, on the top tier proudly sits the patisserie. If there are no cake stands, platters are then laid out as the showpiece of the table. For Rosh Hashanah, we can include finger-sized portions of rich, spicy honey cake, whether almond-crusted or not (thanks to Mary, Queen of Scots’ alleged aversion to cherries, the fashion for cakes topped with slivered almonds started) and of course, enticing squares of cinnamon-flavoured apple cake or strudel. The addition of a couple of chocolatey items will also be appreciated.

Finally, very aware of the amount of eating happening throughout the autumn Jewish Holidays (with one notable exception!), afternoon tea should definitely be a low tea, rather than a high tea. As I am at pains to point out to my American family and friends, ‘high tea,’ as they insist on calling a classic afternoon tea, was actually associated with the factory workers and farm labourers, for whom it was their sustaining evening meal, taken at the higher time of the day after their return home from a hard day’s work. ‘Low tea’, on the other hand, was enjoyed by the upper classes at the lower time of the afternoon, 3 pm – 4 pm, and did not have to be fully sustaining, as the aristocracy could look forward to a large dinner in the evening.

And perhaps most importantly, only fine china cups and saucers should adorn afternoon tea. Save the heavy mugs for morning coffee!

Easy as pie’ scone recipe

Ingredients:

450g self-rising flour

1 tsp baking powder

80g caster sugar

Pinch of salt

100g cold butter or margarine – chopped into small pieces

284 ml milk (whatever kind you have in the fridge). Buttermilk works very well.

Turn the oven up to 220C (430F) or Gas Mark 7 (as long as it’s hot!). Pre-heat a baking tray.

Sift the flour, salt and sugar into a largish bowl. Using a light touch, rub the butter or margarine into the flour until it resembles fine breadcrumbs. Can also be quickly blitzed in a food processor.

Gradually add the milk mixture mix with a knife or a metal spoon, as this means you don’t overwork the mixture. Try not to make the mixture too wet. It’s a good idea not to add all the milk at once. You will get a feel for when the dough has the right amount of milk. Not too wet, not too dry! It should all come together in a softish ball.

Flatten the ball gently with your hands on a floured surface. Don’t roll your scone dough too thin, 4 cm is a good depth.

Cut out your scones – be gentle, don’t over work the scones and try not to twist your cutter – just press down firmly and shake the scone out – and if the cutter gets sticky, dip it in the flour bag.

Remove the tray from the oven and sprinkle the hot tray and the scones with flour. Bake for about 10/12 minutes, depending on your oven.  Allow to cool and serve with jam and cream.

Recipe by Gillian Perry published in Please Pass the Scones, a Social History of Afternoon Tea by Gillian Perry, Carnegie Publishing, 2022.

Gillian also gives popular talks on the topic for charities, social groups and private celebrations. 

gillperr9@gmail.com